Colin Valentis Racing

2007 Yamaha R6: From Stock to Race

The day I brought her home, a stock 2007 Yamaha R6.

I decided to purchase the Scotts rotary steering damper. It offered the most adjustability, and it's one of the higher quality dampers. It comes with CNC machined aluminum mounting braces that bolt to the frame. The only downside to this however is you have to drill/tap into the frame. As long as you measure twice and drill once, it shouldn't be an issue.

Next I picked up a set of high quality brake lines to reduce brake fade over the course of a race. The stock lines tend to get squishy when they're exposed to excessive heat up and you end up losing brake feel, and at times have to pull the lever all the way to the bar in order to get the bike slowed down. I decide on the Fren Tubo Carbotech Type 4 brake lines, front/rear. These are excellent high quality brake lines made in Italy.

I decided on a set of shorty ASV clutch/brake levers, they are nicely made and offer a lot of adjustability. I went with the short levers because I usually only clutch/brake with two fingers.

BMC seems to be one of the most popular aftermarket filters on the market so I went with their race system. I also purchased a Puig double bubble windscreen in order to reduce the amount of wind resistance on my helmet.

I purchased a cheap set of race fairings. They were some knock off brand, but I figured they would work fine. They came pre-primered and ready for paint. There were no pre-drilled mounting holes however.

Next I fitted the body work on the bike and drilled the mounting holes. I didn't run into any issues with the fitment. I was nervous considering how cheap they were that they wouldn't fit right, happily that wasn't the case.

I did several paint renderings in Photoshop, after sever days of mulling it over, this was the design I settled on.

Patience is the key here. I used 3 cans of paint and a can of clear for this project. All said and done with it took about a week, well worth it in my opinion.

My old chain/gearing was about shot and was in need of a replacement. I picked up the DID ERV3 racing chain with the 520 pitch. This chain is much lighter than stock and greatly reduces rotating mass. I also changed my gearing to a -1/+2 setup removing a tooth from the front sprocket and adding 2 in the rear. I'll lose some top end speed but pick up a whole mess of torque down low. The rear sprocket is anodized aluminum which again is much lighter than stock effectively dropping more rotating mass. Using a chain breaker kit the install was a breeze. I also got some preload adjusters and a beer cozy for free. The last picture shows the old chain and removed exup servo motor.

Next I removed the stock exhaust. The big tumor you see on the stock header helps with emissions and also reduces engine noise, aside from being hideous it's also heavy; weighing in at approximately 8lbs. I picked up a header from an older generation R6. These headers did not have the emission canister and with a few modifications would mount right up. I picked up a 2"-1 3/4" reducer. The '05 header is 2" OD so it's a really tight fit. I cut perpendicular into the reducer so I could get it over the pipe. I then got an 02 bung for free at a local exhaust shop, used a 7/8" Bi-hole saw to drill a hole for the bung. I then had my buddy weld everything on. I also had to bore out the flange holes a bit so they mount to the engine block.

With the new exhaust setup I no longer had any need for the exup servo motor, so again to reduce weight I removed it. The bike will throw a code unless you buy an exup plug, or you can save some money and make your own for a few bucks. This will prevent the bike from throwing a code when the exup servo motor is removed. After I soldered the resistor and capacitor on I used electrical tape to wrap it and hid it under the tank.

Next were the Bazzaz electronics, I purchased a ZFI which controls all eight injectors and allows me to run a custom fuel map. I also picked up the ZAFM which makes dyno tuning unnecessary, I will be able see what my AFR is utilizing the wideband sensor in the O2 bung. Once these numbers are recorded I can make changes to the map accordingly. The ZFI was a pretty complicated install, the included directions could be improved, but luckily there was a write up on the R6 forum to walk me though the install. Bazzaz ZFI Write Up

The Bazzaz ZFI has the ability to store two different maps which can be accessed at the flip of a switch. I could have a leaner map for track use with race fuel, and a richer map with pump gas and street use. I had a toggle switch and some wire lying around so I decided to make my own map selector switch.

I wanted to check and see if the throttle bodies were in sync so I made a manometer with some tubing I had lying around. They were ok but I was able to get them a little better synced.

I was looking into light weight batteries and found the A123 lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries. These seem to be pretty popular. I was sent a four cell LiFePO4 battery from my sponsor MOTYdesign. The size difference is tremendous, and it will shed over 5 lbs from the bike.

Next I was able to pick up an Ohlins 25mm valve cartridge kit (already installed in a set of R6 forks) and a rear shock reworked by Racetech. This will greatly improve the feel and handling of the bike on the track.

The Ohlins forks were fit with 0.90kg/mm springs which would be fine for my weight; however I needed a lighter rear spring. I opted for the 8.9kg/mm spring from RaceTech on the rear. Having the bike properly sprung up for my weight is crucial when setting sag. This is the foundation from which farther suspension tweaks will be made depending on the track and weather conditions.

The RaceTech preload adjustment collar allows for a tremendous amount of adjustment, the stock collar is quite limited in comparison. This shock also has RaceTech’s 40x12mm Gold Shock Valve, rebound separator valve, and ultra slick/ultra light suspension fluid.

Next the forks were installed, I needed to purchase a head lift and I decided to go with Pitbull's front stand adapter.

Next I installed the rear shock. I didn't have any jack stands, so I improvised.

I found a good deal on a XT Laptimer and decided to throw it on the bike.

Picked up a pair of Renthal 50mm clipons from Motomummy at a great price. The machining quality and laser etching on these levers is superb. Definitely some of the best clipons out there!

Left and right side case covers came in from Motomummy. These things look great, quality CNC machined billet 6061 Aluminum. The replaceable skid pads are great protection for the more vulnerable areas of the covers.

We had an unusually warm day in February so I took the bike out for a test ride. This was the first time I was able to use the Bazzaz ZAFM. I went for a quick ride and retrieved the data it had recorded and applied the changes to my fuel map. Everything worked great, really like the auto tune module.

Repainted for the 2011 Season